Archive for January 2008

January 27th, 2008

Homeward bound

We arrived in Punta Arenas early today. All is well, and after a good night’s sleep we intend to continue our journey to the Northern Hemisphere. First, however, we need to dry and organise all our equipment.

I speak for all of us when I say we’re looking forward to seeing family and friends.

January 25th, 2008

Lectures and igloo building

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There is time to explore the hills that gives the base its name – and even to build igloos.

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Here is the blue ice for which Patiot Hills is known. One of our tents near the base.

The weather has lengthened our stay in Patriot Hills. It’s sunny, all right, but also gale winds – in other words, unacceptable conditions for the pilots to land and take off. The forecast gives little hope of an imminent change of fortune, so I suspect we may well have to practice our patience for a couple of more days.

Some of us are building an igloo. We take walks and go skiing and play cards. In the evening, lectures have been organised in the large dinging tent. We’re warm and dry, and suffering no duress – but we really would like to be on our way home.

We’ve received a message that John has arrived safely back in Ireland. All is well.

Better weather forecast for Friday

There was no takeoff today, due to high winds out on the runway. However, the weather forecast is better for Friday afternoon; at least those who are responsible for air service to Patriot Hill are optimistic. So we have time to relax …

All the climbers have returned to base.

We’ve been given access to one of the large, semi-permanent tents, which is furnished with tables and chairs. The temperature here is comfortable and we have space to move around – here we can relax, chat and play cards, and cook food for ourselves when we’re hungry. Right now it’s full house, filled with about 40 people who are all waiting to depart with the Ilyushin 76.

The photo below was taken after we disembarked from the aeroplane that first brought us to Patriot Hills, from Punta Arenas. In other words, it’s not standing out there ready on the runway.

It is lively here in the tent, and there is a good mood in the camp. Amongst our company is a group of Englishmen who have also been out skiing the Antarctic. And so naturally a lot of good stories are exchanged, from far and wide. It’s fascinating. All is well and we’re having a good time here in the “waiting hall”.

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January 24th, 2008

Waiting for the mountain climbers …

All day we were hoping to be able to fly back north, back to Punta Arenas in Chile; but now the wind is just a little bit too strong. We have been waiting for 20 climbers to return from Mount Winston – and since that is half the outward-bound passengers, there was no chance of taking off without them. It’s been foggy at the foot of the mountain where the climbing group has their camp, but now the Twin Otter is finally on its way to fetch them.

In the meantime, the wind has picked up, so our earliest possible departure is tomorrow. We’ll see what the weather is like after we have had a good night’s sleep.

The climbers will arrive in the course of the evening. But we also need to wait until landing conditions here in Patriot Hills are good enough to receive the large Ilyushin 76 machines that provide much of the air services to this continent. Maybe our flight will be tomorrow, perhaps it will take longer – on Antarctica you can never take anything for granted.

In each our own way, we have used the day. Svante, Helen, Andrew and I have gone skiing around Hills. The others have relaxed, read a book or newspaper. We are quite comfortable and have no cause for complaint – but we are eager to return to Punta Arenas as soon as possible.

I’ll send you some more photos from Patriot Hills; it’s very different from the South Pole.

January 22nd, 2008

A joint celebration in Patriot Hills

Both groups are now back in Patriot Hills! Yesterday I followed Svante, Andrew, Rudi, Helen and Adrian part of their very final stretch, in to the South Pole. When we arrived, in between the aeroplanes that were landing, taking of the summer to fly in as much fuel and equipment as possible to this base, we were suddenly in the midst of many people. It was a huge transition for the five remaining in Svante’s group.

They received a well-deserved coffee and cakes in the cantina at the South Pole Base, and then a guided tour of some of the scientific research projects. One of them is the IceCube Neutrino Project led by my good friend Svein Lidström, where they drill 2500 metres down into the ice, depositing sensor that become embedded there. What they’re searching for is some sort of traces after neutrinos, remnants of The Big Bang. This research is very much at the trial stage, so the researches are not entirely sure what they are looking for. The scientists gave an exciting introduction to how they drill so deeply and how they work.

We spent a night at the South Pole. This afternoon the aeroplane picked us up at three o’clock local time. When we landed in Patriot Hills, a huge celebration dinner, complete with Champagne, awaited us. It was great for the two groups to meet again, after being separated for almost a week. There was victory in the air, as you can tell by the photo – and there was great food and good wine. We celebrated into the wee hours of the night. Both groups have had success, making to the South Pole despite challenges. It’s impressive that they overcame all the difficulties and managed so well.

Now everyone is safe here in Patriot Hills, and we send greeting to John and everyone who has followed us. All that remains is to wait for the aeroplane that is due to arrive tomorrow, to fly us back to Punta Arenas. Nothing can ever be taken for granted, but is at the mercy of the Antarctic weather and winds. We’ll give you an update on how that goes tomorrow.

A photo album from Antarctica

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Above: Both expedition groups finally gathered again to
celebrate in Patriot Hills. “A toast to John, and to all who have
followed us on our journey!”

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Perhaps you no longer recognise them? Well, here you have Adrian and Rudi…

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…Helen and Svante…

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and Andrew.

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Planting the Skull & Bones (and the Union Jack) at the South Pole – a sign of bona fide pirates!

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Two flags and twice as proud. Helen and Svante.

January 21st, 2008

Reaching the South Pole – an incredible contrast!

Report from Svante: This is our report for both the 20th and 21st of January. After four hours work with building yet another runway, the Twin Otter landed near our camp. Such an aircraft requires at least a 500-metre stretch, without bumps or holes, in order to land safely.

The pilot flew us to a spot that lay approximately 14 kilometres from the South Pole. From there we skied the last stretch; it was clear skies and bright sunlight, no wind and about –34˚C. At 21.30 Børge met us by the runway of the base, and together we skied in to the geographic South Pole. After two weeks we finally reached our goal!

Lots of picture taking, many rounds of congratulations, and a guided tour of the South Pole base are, of course, obligatory. It was an incredible contrast to arrive at this huge complex, which houses 240 persons. Here extensive research projects are carried out; there is a 3000 metre long runway, fuel and food depots to last the entire winter, a dining hall, a sports hall – and even a greenhouse!

Our tents are pitched just 50 metres from where Roald Amundsen himself set up camp after reaching the same destination. Now we are waiting for our flight back to Patriot Hills.

Our group, consisting of a satisfied Rudi, Andrew, Helen, Adrian and Svante, send our warm greetings to everyone who has followed us on our expedition. We especially thank you for your many encouraging messages.

Børge is on his way to meet Svante’s group

The others left for Patriot Hills four hours ago. First, however, the pilot picked up Svante’s group and flew them to within reach of the South Pole. They have been out there full of determination, skiing ever southward all day long. We can see them on the horizon!

I expect that they’ll reach the station here within three quarters of an hour. I’m donning my skis to go greet them, and to follow them on their very last stretch.

Our plan worked. And the project was as successful as circumstances permitted. In my opinion, everyone has good reason to be satisfied with their own performance, as well as our efforts as a team.

You will hear more from me tomorrow. In the meantime, Svante will no doubt give you a good account of his group’s experience.

A Twin Otter will pick us at four or five tomorrow afternoon, local time, which is four hours after Norwegian time.

Ok, I’m on my way to meet them!

January 20th, 2008

Thoughts from the most southerly point on Earth

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The flags of two nations are hoisted at the South Pole, as the first team of six reaches their destination.
…and the flag of Langesund Elementary School, drawned and signed by each of the students, who have followed the expedition from day to day, is proudly unfurled by Britt Thorstensen and expedition leader Børge Ousland. Greetings back to all the children – from the South Pole!

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Report from Børge: We held fast to our routines and got up at the usual time this morning. Navigation today has been incredibly simple – just steer toward the buildings and radar station that we’ve had in view all day. I have enjoyed walking last in line, while the others have taken turns leading the group. Other days, especially when weather conditions have been difficult, I have led the way, because when you can’t see anything, navigation requires a fair bit of experience.

Already when we reached the runway, a representative from the base came to greet us. We have gotten a wonderful reception her at the South Pole! I know quite a few of the people at this base. Many of them were here in 1995, when I walked my solo expedition to the South Pole, and they are here still. For me it’s been great to see them again – especially my good friend Svein Lidström, a Swedish researcher. I met him for the first time twelve years ago, and we’ve kept in contact. Svein is the veteran and nestor here at the South Pole Base, and he immediately invited all of us to a party!

Within an hour of arriving, we all stood in a warm room with soft sofas, a nice cold beer in our hands. What a transition! I think many of us had to pinch our arm to realize this was really true – so huge was the contrast to life out on the ice. But we have arrived; we can finally relax, and we can enjoy very different surroundings to that of the last two weeks, with the almost constant wind, the cold, and the efforts of pulling our pulks ever forward.

Afterwards the others received a guided tour of the South Pole Base. I pitched our tents and spoke with Patriot Hills via my satellite telephone.

Our plan is unchanged: A Twin Otter is coming tomorrow morning. The aeroplane will first pick up Svante, Helen, Adrian, Andrew and Rudi, flying them to within a day’s march of the South Pole. While they are proceeding to the destination – the goal of our expedition – our group will be flown back to Patriot Hills.

I will remain here to receive Svante’s group, returning with them. A new flight is scheduled a couple of days from now.

I am happy to report that our first group has arrived safely. It has been a magnificent adventure, with friendship and fine shared experiences every single day! Most are intoxicated by their victory, and everything is new and exciting at the South Pole.

What I am looking most forward to is to receive Svante’s group, to meet the rest of our team again. I have sent you one photo from the Pole. I’ll send more tomorrow – but now I am going to sleep.

Thank you for all the messages that we have received en route, and those after our arrival. They have been wonderful support and inspiration! I promise you that everyone here is thinking of their loved ones back home – and all are glad that the expedition has gone as well as it did. We’re greatly looking forward to hearing more about how Svante’s team has experienced their adventures, and how they have met the challenges they have faced.

A day of reconnaissance

Report from Svante: Today has been a day of reconnaissance, with the aim of finding the best possible landing site for the Twin Otter that is scheduled to come tomorrow morning. We’ve also been out photographing, have eaten good meals and enjoyed each other’s company in the camp.

We expect to be flown closer to the South Pole in the morning, so we can ski the final stretch.

Yesterday we built an igloo – and Helen spent the night there. As she experience, it’s an excellent alternative to a tent. Even with just a candle, you can stay warm and be quite comfortable, even if it should be miserably cold and windy outside.

The construction is very solid, as Andrew proved when he climbed up and stood on the roof; it showed no signs of collapse.

… wish to reach the South Pole tomorrow. Tonight we have a message from Rudi (sends his love to his family). And I send a great warm hug to my girls, Eline and Line. (poor connection at end of call)