Camp 17: Another extraordinary day. As we are of the (infamous) ‘never go twice generation’ we chose to pack it all in one load. So with some 40 kilos on our backs started the trip down. We must have looked like drunken (or dying) sailors, as we soon had a Condor floating above. That this carrion bird at times came as close as 10 metres says volumes about the sight of us struggling under our backpacks…

After some 7-8 km came we upon a very small farm. Here a settler couple lived with a handful of cows, no electricity and only that the earth could chip in. It was overwealming to be treated in the way we were.

Later we worked for the food, logging, fetching the cows and getting water. In the evening we were treated to a real brotherhood gathering. Though we were deeply embarrassed and sad our Spanish was as bad as it is. But the Satellite phone helped out a bit.

Through their only means of communication, a VHF radio, we now believe the husband will take us down the river in his boat tomorrow, and that another boat from Tortel will pick us up in a day – or two.

Camp 16, Bent reports: This was a big, big day. It started pretty wildly with us trying to jump off the Stephan Glacier. It was all a very rough ice, ups and downs and sledges that was not keen to cooperate at all. But at 1130am we stepped onto the moraine.

Then we repacked from sledges to backpacks and the carrying could start. The rest of the day we followed the moraine and late in the afternoon we set foot on ‘real’ land. By that the Northern Glacier was crossed, and this part of our adventure behind us. Now awaits the next. Walking down and towards the laguna, and on.

But first, we just enjoyed the day. It was wonderful to light a bonfire and smell all the earthy smells. This is called the horse Camp, and was the very first sign of human activity since we left. A truly great day.