Børge Ousland

Update 00.25: Present position

Positional update 04.00: We’re headed toward Novaya Zemlya and the Kara Strait.

Updated position 15.00: About 60 nautical miles southwest of Novaya Zemlya, making steady progress.

In tight quarters, there is no need to get out of the sleeping bag to boil water for coffee after some shut-eye.

We are getting into a good routine, including Stas. There are lots of new things for him to figure out, but he is an eager and fast learner. Having done several Arctic expeditions in the past, he knows more or less how things work.

Our boat is headed towards Novaya Zemlya and Kara Strait, which offers passage near the southern tip.

We have been lucky with the weather, even if the wind is not from the best direction. These waters are know for atrocious weather, but we have had a steady 5 to 6 metre-per second-wind. In the course of the day it is supposed to turn in a more southerly direction, which would be to our advantage.

The importance of rainwater
I have mounted a water collecting system under the boom. We are carrying a limited water supply, only about 70 litres, in order to minimise the weight of our boat, but this system will allow us to collect rainwater. We have made a canvas channel under the main sail, with a small tube at the lower end where we can fill the water in a bucket or other container. With this system, all the water falling on the main sail will end up in this channel, where we can collect it.

It’s a beautiful morning with a low sun breaking through scattered clouds. Temperatures are gradually getting colder. At the moment it is 7.8˚C in the water and 8 degrees in the air.

Water-collecting channel under the main sail.

The collected water comes out of this tube.
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Updated position at 19.20: Here is our present position – roughly halfway to Kara Strait.

Update 06.02: Here is our position early this morning – due north of Kildin Island (Ostrov Kil’din). This puts us approx. 130 km east of the Norwegian border. In order to put things in perspective, you may need to zoom out on the map.

Update 13.34: Here is our new position.

Expedition report 19.44:
Today we sailed in a nice breeze, 5–8 knots, all day. Unfortunately it was a headwind – but frankly we are just happy to be on the way. According to the weather forecast the wind will turn to our advantage tomorrow.

Right now we’re off Kola Peninsula, on the way to Vaigash, which is immediately south of Novaya Zemlya. Satellite ice charts show that there is still ice west of the Kara Strait, but it is loose ice. If the weather is fair without too much fog, then we shouldn’t have any problem getting through.

Yesterday a huge atomic icebreaker requested that we change course – and of course we gave them the right-of-way.

We have also seen quite a lot of whales, large and small. Slowly but surely we are getting into our routines again, and Stas is quickly getting mastering the world of trimaran sailing.

Ice chart of Kara Strait and the waters off Novaya Zemlya.

Leaving Murmansk at last! (Photos: Irena Jovanovic)

…and sailing out the fjord.

Update 21.15: A short while ago we got clearance, and are now sailing out the Murmansk Fjord. The tide is with us. As soon as we reach the open sea, we’ll chart a course toward the Northeast Passage.

Cheers!
Thorleif, Børge & Stanislav
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PS. As we leave Murmansk behind, we would like to thank our friends, and the great many people who showed us such warm Russian hospitality in this port city. Below are a few photos. (Scroll down, and you will see we have also added more than a dozen photos to other blog entries.)

Sascha and Irina Orlov, owners of Barneo Ice Camp – the northernmost in the world.

Our friend and sponsor Frederik Paulsen gave us a bottle of Champagne – to be opened in celebration when we reach Oslo in three months time.

My friend and fellow expeditioner David Hempelman Adams also happened to be in Murmansk.

And last but not least our good friend Victor Boyarski, who has helped us and our Northern Passage 2010 Expedition in too many ways to count. Here on board icebreaker NS “Lenin”.

Our third crew member for the Northeast Passage is Stanislav, whom we call Stas, here with his girlfriend Irena.

We are are still trying to get the last piece of the puzzle in place: certification of Search & Rescue Insurance. There is so much unexpected back-and-forth. The delays are incredibly frustrating! We’re checking out more alternatives, doing everything we can to speed up the process – but at the moment it looks like we’ll be unable to leave today.

Update 14.15: Finally! We’ve got our proof of insurance. Planning to leave Murmansk at 16.30.

Update 18.40: We’ve moved to a different harbour. Now awaiting border & customs personnel, and their clearance before departure. It really does look like Thorleif, Stas and I are actually leaving today!

Irina (a different Irina!) at the Murmansk Shipping Company has been of great help to us.

Captain Thorleifsson meeting with Reso Insurance Company.

Finally! The “missing piece” is now in place: our confirmation of valid Search & Rescue Insurance. The insurer approved highly of our boat…

…and of course a couple of days ago the doctor certified that the three of us are in excellent condition!

Contrary to our hopes and expectations, we did not receive the insurance documents today – and hence cannot leave today. What we are said to require is so-called Search and Rescue Insurance, which covers the cost of such operations if something unforeseen should happen to us.

A representative of the Russian insurance company that had originally promised insurance, and then withdrawn their approval at the last minute, has been on board.

I must confess that I find the whole issue a bit curious. After all, today Russia is a signatory nation to the International Convention on Maritime Search and Rescue of 1979. So we’re surprised such insurance is required.

Anyways, we remain optimistic that the issue will resolve itself. Stas (Stanislav) is doing everything he can to find a solution. Let’s hope that we obtain the needed insurance tomorrow.

(Børge in Murmansk, interviewed by mobile phone)
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Meanwhile, here are some more photographs…

From our press conference on board icebreaker NS “Lenin”. (Saturday)

Also a representative of the Russian Coastguard attended our press conference.

We were deeply honoured when the captain of the “Lenin” came on board for a visit on our humble vessel. Our other visitor is the Norwegian Consul General in Murmansk.

We are on our fifth day in Murmansk and all is well so far. The authorities and people we have met have been very friendly and helpful.

On Saturday we held our press conference on board the old Soviet icebreaker NS “Lenin”. Present were the captain of NS “Lenin”, representatives from Atomflot, the Russian coastguard, the Norwegian consulate, and the City of Murmansk, and of course national and local news teams. After the news conference there has been a steady stream of visitors to the harbour to see our little vessel, which is moored next to the icebreaker. The NS “Lenin” dwarfs our boat; it was built in 1957 and was Soviet Unions first nuclear icebreaker, and in fact the world’s first nuclear-powered surface ship. It is now museum ship here in Murmansk.

Victor and Mikhail from Agency Vicaar in St Petersburg have done an impressive job of obtaining our permission to sail the Northeast Passage, as well as organising our stay here. Our experience is that when procedures are followed and the correct papers filled in, there are few problems with Russian authorities.

Later on Saturday, the inspector from the Port Authority and Northern Sea Route came on board. He went through all our documents, checked that we had necessary maps and pilot books, emergency rafts and lifejackets, etc. All was found in good order, and we are now just waiting for the final document from Moscow before we leave. We expect to receive this later today and hope to depart this evening.

Yesterday was a quiet day for Thorleif and me. We enjoyed a bit of free time, reading and spending time for ourselves.

Mikhail had organised two cabins for us on board the “Lenin”, and it was a great experience to stay there. Thorleif got the captain’s cabin (of course!), and I had a guest cabin. I sat in Fidel Castro’s old chair and enjoyed a glass of Scotch, savouring the grandiose feeling of this historic vessel.

“Stas” (Stanislav) came on board today. He has teamed up with Thorleif for some last minute shopping and to get himself updated on everything on board. I’ve had a bad cold for a couple of days now and went to the doctor, but all was found to be OK and today I feel much better.

The weather has calmed down after a violent storm raged in Murmansk and the northern coast. Now the wind has more or less died down completely. We are also starting at more into the details of ice conditions further north and east. There is still quite a lot of ice blocking the Kara Strait, due to northern winds, and around Cape Cheluskin. Our plan is to move north at a nice and easy pace and get into position, waiting for the first opportunity to clear the Passage.

Our humble boat is dwarfed by nuclear icebreaker NS “Lenin”. Whereas the old Soviet vessel was able to plough through the Arctic ice by brute force, we have to rely on agility, speed and savvy.

To our great pleasure, we were invited to spend the night on NS “Lenin” – and Thorleif was even given the Captain’s Cabin! We celebrated the moment by opening a bottle of fine spirits, and brought out the charts to plan our own voyage.
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Update: Looks like our stay in Murmansk is being extended by a day. We were planning on leaving tonight. However, the insurance papers, which were promised delivered on Friday, have yet to arrive – and we can’t leave until they’re here.

The boat inspections by Murmansk Port Authority are thorough; no detail escapes the inspector’s observant eyes!

Our onboard inspections went well. Now we are only waiting for final approval from the central authorities in Moscow. Since it’s weekend, that won’t happen before tomorrow. If all goes well and we receive a “go” then – which at the moment seems very likely – we’ll set sail again tomorrow evening.

Captain Thorleif.

Børge is very pleased with the stay in Murmansk, and the reception and good help they have received from the Russians.

Here is a video from Friday, preparing the details of our route toward the Northeast Passage, studying ice charts with Victor Boyarski and representatives of Atomflot:

We’re moored alongside the nuclear icebreaker Lenin…

…and on the other side is a huge barge, crewed by friendly Russians, which at least partly shields us from the bad weather.

Thorleif and I enjoy a relaxed dinner on our first night in Murmansk.

Checking icecharts and discussing our route with our good friend Victor Boyarsky and representatives from Atomflot.

We are in the port of Murmansk and all is well – at least so far. Later today we have inspections on board. Tomorrow there is a press conferance on the ice-breaker Lenin.

There is no Internet coverage in the port area, so I’m making do with a brief sms report.
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Update 18.50 (telephone interview):

Russian authorities have postponed inspection of our boat until Monday. The reason is really poor weather, with fierce winds and torrential rain. At the moment, however, the wind has abated and sunlight is streaming down through an opening in the cloud cover. It is 17 degrees and quite comfortable.

We’re moored between a large barge and the Soviet icebreaker NS “Lenin”. Launched in 1957, this civilian vessel was the world’s first nuclear-powered surface ship – today it is a museum.

We don’t mind the delay. Strong northerly winds have pushed down more ice, which will be blocking the Kara Strait for some time. This channel between the Novaya Zemlya and the Russian mainland is the first major bottleneck of the Northeast Passage. Given that we expect 10–14 days to reach the Kara Strait from Murmansk, there is no reason to hurry.

In the meantime we’re enjoying the hospitality of our Russian neighbours, even taking a sauna on their barge.

Our good friend Victor is helping us with a lot of practical details, for instance forwarding a batch of food supplies to the Siberian port of Tiksi, effectively lightening our load.

Today a Russian TV team came on board to do a report on our expedition. Tomorrow, when Stanislav joins us, we’re holding a press conference on the NS “Lenin”.