Børge Ousland

We have had a really excellent day today. After progressing another 20 kilometres, we’ve set up camp at N89˚22’55”, W150˚ – and we’re doing great relative to our schedule.

Today we encountered more pack ice and some really wide leads. Fortunately we were able to navigate around these. The widest lead was perhaps 200 metres or so. We found a good crossing point – unfortunately Merete almost went through the ice. Fortunately she’s light, and we were able to manoeuvre her safely across.

There was also some additional drama today, or rather yesterday, when Reidun was ill and was vomiting. Most likely she carried a virus with her from Longyearbyen or Ice Station Barneo. However, today she has been in tip top shape, no sign of difficulties – in fact we’re the ones who are having trouble keeping up with her. Reidun must be the fittest grandmother in all of Norway!

We have really enjoyed the sun, and mild weather with the thermometer hovering around –20˚C. There has been a gentle southern wind. With a warm sun, comfortable temperatures and a mild wind, it’s hard to imagine that things could be better up here so close to the North Pole.

The ice is still young, none of it more than a year old. Today we measured the thickness to 175 cm.

Everyone is doing fine, having a good time, and enjoying each other’s company and the expedition.

We’re once again sheltered in our tents, after skiing for eight and a half hours. It’s been a good day, despite the rather obnoxious 7–10 metre per second wind from the west. Toward the end of the day it got colder, but also nicer. If we are lucky the wind will turn and blow from a more southerly direction by morning. As it is, we are drifting 500–600 metres toward the southwest every hour. Today we walked almost 20 km, but due to the ice drift, our net gain is limited to 13.5 km. Nevertheless we are very satisfied with our progress; it’s great to be hitting that kind of pace this early on an expedition. The position of our camp is N89˚11’24”, W156˚. The ice drift has carried us almost four degrees latitude to the west since yesterday.

Our expedition team has also seen a bit of action today. Twice we experienced the pack ice being scrunched together as we passed it or crossed it. It’s amazing to witness these immense forces of nature up close! We also crossed two or three open leads where we had to crawl across, using our pulks as a bridge. Other times we could safely ski across.

One thing that is highly unusual about this year’s expedition is that we are not seeing any ice that is older than a year – no ice that survived the melt last summer. Usually one sees thicker pack ice that has refrozen after being partially melted, but there is nothing like that in our surroundings. Each day we measure the ice, and today it was 170 cm. That, of course, is plenty thick enough, but conditions up here are very different than they were on my first expeditions 15–20 years ago.

Enormous forces can press the pack ice together into small mountains.

We are on the move! Yesterday we enjoyed our stay at Ice Station Barneo, got a good look around the base, and spent the night in nice, warm tents.

At 11.30 this morning we flew by helicopter together with a Russian group, which is headed for the same destination. Our pilot actually flew us right across the North Pole, landing at W160˚, which is clear on the other side. The reason for that is the strong ice drift, which would otherwise carry us in the wrong direction. We don’t need that extra challenge. The pilot kindly offered to give us a better point of departure.

After walking 8 km today, we are now camped at N89˚04’, W160˚. It feels great to relax after we have begun to get a good rhythm out on the ice. That takes a while.

It has been a fairly mild day, about 12–15 degrees below, but with a chilling wind – fortunately not enough to cause real problems. It’s been cloudy with a wondrous play of colours in the icy landscape. We crossed a few small leads on thin ice, but didn’t experience any undesirable drama. Everyone is doing perfectly fine.

We have seen a lot of pack ice, which takes on its own beautiful bluish hues. We’ve walked in awe past the magnificent blocks of ice that are everywhere. The ice here is young, only a year old. Our measurements show that it is 150 cm thick.

Yesterday afternoon we returned safely to Longyearbyen, where we celebrated with good conversation and a relaxing dinner at a restaurant. Everyone expressed that they were content with their first expedition to the North Pole.

In Longyearbyen I greeted a new adventure-bound group of people. Together we checked that all the equipment was in order. At 15.30 our aeroplane had lift-off; for a while we were uncertain whether we could leave on schedule, due to heavy winds. But as soon as the pilots decided it was safe, we sped off down the runway. Two and a half hours later we landed on the ice at Barneo.

We’re very pleased to be in position, because the weather forecast calls for gradually stronger southeasterly winds.

Tomorrow we hope to fly by helicopter to 89˚N. Our chosen mission is to ski “The Last Degree” to the North Pole.

All is well, and we’re looking forward to the challenge.

The expedition member have safely arrived at Ice Station Barneo, the northernmost Arctic base in the world. But everyone is itching to move further north in a hurry! Stanislav in the foreground, Lars Nøring in a red jacket to the left.

Yesterday our pilot picked us up at 13.00 Norwegian time and flew us back to Ice Station Barneo. The second night on the North Pole was easier for the expedition members than the first. People had a bit of problems the first night, which is to be expected; everything is new and different, and the cold keeps you awake. Even though your sleeping bag is warm enough, it feels strange to breathe in extremely cold air. The second night was easier for everyone.

Yesterday morning we stayed in our camp, waiting for our aeroplane. After arriving safely at Barneo, we enjoyed a good hot meal. We were also treated to a stay in nice, warm Russian tents, and didn’t have to unpack our own.

Now we’re waiting for our flight; it’s in the air and it won’t be long. We expect to be leaving here around 12.30, and reaching Longyearbyen at 15.00.

Everything is right on schedule, and all of us are in fine shape.

We’re in our tents again now, after spending a day exploring our exotic surroundings. The expedition members have seen lots of pack ice and beautiful, strange ice formations – this really is like stepping into a different world! Some who are here for the first time have commented that it is as if we are surrounded by the landscape of another planet.

It has been a fine, sunny day, but a bit windier than yesterday, and much of the time we have walked about with the wind at our backs. Since we haven’t been required to aim for any particular destination, we have headed and explored where we pleased. You might say that the wind has made some decisions for us; it’s quite cold, the thermometer shows –32˚C, and when you add the wind factor you can really feel it. During each pause we have felt the cold start gnawing into our bones, but have quickly regained our warmth as we started walking again. That was fine when wind was out our backs, but as soon as we turned around, which of course we eventually had to, we suffered that biting wind in our faces!

Now we’re pleased to back, sheltered in our tents. Our gas stoves are lit, and as we look forward to a nice warm dinner we’re chatting and relaxing. According to our plan, we’re being picked up at around 12 noon tomorrow. We’ll fly back to Ice Station Barneo, where we shall spend one night. On Sunday the 13th of April we expect to be homeward bound on a larger aeroplane.

All is well. It has been great to explore the North Pole at a relaxed pace, to have time to savour it all. Everyone seems pleased with the itinerary and what they’re experiencing – especially the opportunity to have two full days and nights up here. It’s a great adventure!

Right near our camp is an extended line of pack ice, twisted up into the air by the great force of currents beneath the ice. When we climbed up on top, we could see a vast panorama, many kilometres in each direction. It really is exotic and magnificent up here, and I am glad they have the opportunity to experience that.

Our campsite is well placed, we are all doing fine, and everything is right on schedule.

Right now we’re actually on the North Pole! It has been a great day with magnificent weather – 27 degrees below Centigrade, little wind and good ice conditions. We have skied across a few leads and passed through areas of pack ice, but fortunately these challenges have not presented any problems.

Everything has gone according to plan. At 10am this morning our aeroplane left for Ice Station Barneo, where we enjoyed warm coffee and a bite to eat. After a few hours a smaller aircraft flew us to our position, nine kilometres from the North Pole. We followed 112˚East in a more or less straight line in to the world’s most northerly point, which we reached after six or seven hours.

It’s been a great day with varied Arctic experiences – pack ice and open water and, of course, the magnificent landscape that always awaits visitors to the North Pole. Now we are camped right at the pole and can finally relax in our tents. We’ve had a late dinner, it’s almost midnight, but we really wanted to reach the world’s most northerly point today.

Our plan tomorrow is to explore at a relaxed pace, and take more pictures. The weather forecast is good.

Unfortunately, we will not be able to send you photographs, because I have forgotten the little chord that connects the photo storage disk to the satellite phone. That’s regrettable, but you will just have to settle for reading the blog for now.

All our expedition members are in fine shape and good spirits – this has been a rewarding day. We shall tonight and one more night at the North Pole, before flying back to Ice Station Barneo on the 12th of April, with a flight home the following day.

I will send you a new report tomorrow.